Process of making stitch-down shoes.



A. ,H. PRENZEL.

PROCESS OF MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 21. 1913.

' Patented Nov. 2, 1915.

. tain their shape as UNIT D I STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ADA H. .PR-ENZEL, or HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR ro UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION on EW JERSEY.

To all whom itmay concern.

Be it knownthat I, ADAM H. PnnNznn, a

cating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to processes of makmg.

uppers and commonly referred to as stitchdown shoes.

An object of this "invention is to provide an improved process. of making stitch-down shoes to the end that the best materials may be utilized without so increasing the cost of.

the shoe as to make it unprofitable tomanufacture;

In the manufacture of stitch-down shoes littleattention has. been paid,-'up to the present time, to the fit of these shoes, to so constructing the they are worn and to so making the shoes that they can be resoled without'relasting. One ofjthereasons why solittle attention has been paid to the fit of these shoes is that until. recently it has been almost impossible to conform a stitch-down upper to the last and to keep it conformed to the last'until the outsole is attached. It has therefore only been profitable to make these shoes in the cheaper grades and of such poor materials in most cases that there has een little occasion for having the-shoes re-' paired, since the shoe as a whole has been in suchshape by the time the solehas become worn that it has'not been worth repairing.

By the improved lasting process disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,086,

. granted November 10,1914, on my co-pendingapplication Serial No. 725,476, filed Oct. 12, 1912', and by the machine for performing this lastin process disclosed in United States Letters atent No. 1,117,087, granted November 10, 1914, and No. 1,117 ,440,

granted November 17, 1914, on my co-pend-v applications Serial Nos. 725,477 and g tension insole employed in the manufacture ing 736,079,'filed respectively,-Oct.- 12, 1912 and Dec. 11, 1912, the problem oflasting st tchdown shoeshas been so successfully solved Specification of Letters Patent.

shoes and is particularly applicable tothe manufacture of shoes having outturned contemplate the employment of an insole 70 shoes that they will main 1 PROCESS OF MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

aimsto facilitate the manufacture of shoes of this type not only in childrens sizes but especially-in boys and mens sizes, and at. the same time to provide a process whereby shoes may .be made of such neat appearance as 11(1) adapt them for the misses and womens. t-ra e.

Incarrying-out the present inventionvI which can be shouldered or channeled to form a support inside the shoe forthe upper, and which, after shouldering,,will have a flange of sufiicient thickness and strength so that the upper can be secured to it in the lasting operation by staples or other suitable permanent fastenings whichvwill preferably,

in the case of the staples, beclenched upon the bottom face of the insole. a

To compensate for the expense incident to employing an insole which can be-shouldered or channeled to form an inside support for .the upper, I contemplate forming during the shouldering or channelingoperation a .welt which can be utilized during the out- ,sole. attachment in place of the usual separate welt. strip, the shoulder or channel, or

shoulder and channel, being so formed that the welt strip formed inthe shouldering operation will have the grain. side of the leather for its upper face. This Welt strip will preferably be left attached to the sole atone end wherebythe securing of the parts of the shoe together is facilitated and rendered permanent.

The novel shoe produced by the process of the present invention is not claimed herein but forms the subject matter of my co-pend- Patented Nov. 2, 1915. Application filed may 21, 1913. Serial No.768,97 5..

ing-application Serial No. 861,822, filed Sepv tember 15, 1914.

Other objects and important features of the invention will-appear from the followings, in which,

ing description and claims when considered in connection with the accompanying draw- Figure 1 's a perspective view of the. ex-.

of the improved shoe by the improved process, parts of the insole being shown in sec- P F g- 2 ws, in section and side ele the ode of lasting the shoeyFig. is a side elevation, with parts in sect1on,':.-,

illustrating the-completed shoe and the relative positions of the diiferent parts'in the completed shoe.

In preparing the extension insole 2, which is shown in Fig. 1, a sole of the outline and size of the outsole 4c to be used in the shoe is channeled in such manner that awelt strip 6 is separated from the sole with the grain side up and that an undercut channel 8 1s forined,-leaving a channel up or shoulder 10.

This channeling operation, preferably extehds from a point 12 at the front of'the heel-seat part of the sole around the sole to a second point 14 where the channeling knife is withdrawn, leaving the welt strip 6 attached to the sole at this end. After the channeling operation that part of the heel-seat end of the sole which lies within the channeled portion and above the plane of the surface from which the welt strip has been removed is separated from the sole by a splitting machine, or other suitable means, as far forward as the front end of the heel seat, to form a tongue over which the heel end of the upper may be lasted in.

' The extension insole, having been pre-.

pared in the manner shown in 1, is placed upon the last in such position that the raised central portion 18 of the insole has its edge substantially flush with the bottom edge ofthe last, or extending slightly beyond the edge but centered upon said last,

and the upper when placed upon the last is drawn down and the angle of the upper is forced into the-channel or groove 8, thus turning" the lip 1011p or forcing it against the side or bottomfface of the last and forcing the extension edge 20 of the insole down somewhat away from the last. The angle of the upper is preferably forced as far back as possibleinto the channel or groove 8 and is secured in this position by a fastening, preferably a staple 22 driventhrough the upper in this angle and through the insole 2 and clenched upon the bottom of the insole. .The shoe having been lasted in the manner described, the outsole'4 is placed upon the insole, the welt 6 is laid upon the outturned edge of the upper, and the welt, upper, extension edge of the insole and outsole are united by stitches 26.

Inorder to provide proper insulation for the foot and to provide a cushion for the insole and also to provide a filler for the space inside the depressed extension edge 20 'of the insole, a'filling piece 28 is preferably interposed between the insole and outsole before the outsole stitching operation, this filling piece being formed of felt, felt paper or any other suitable filling or cushioning material.

:the staple lasting machineshown and described in mv co-pending application Serial No. 736,079, filed Dec. 11, 1912, Ven; which Letters PatenuNo, 1,117,4l0 were granted November 17, 1914.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises cutting from one surface of an extension insole a welt of a width and thickness toprovide a shoulder upon saidinsole which will lie within and support the shoe upper, said welt being left attached atone end to said insole, turning out the lower margin ofsaid upper upon the surface from which the welt has been removed, forcing the angle of the upper into the angle between the shoulder and the surface upon which the upper has been turned out, permanently securing said upper to saidinsole by inserting staples through the upper in said angle and through the insole, clenching said staples upon the bottom faceof the -insole, laying the welt upon the outturned upper. and securing togelther said welt, upper, insole and an outso e.

2. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which comprises cutting from one surface of an extension insole a welt of a width and thickness to leave a shoulder upon said insole which will lie within and support the upper, said welt permanently uniting the upper to the insole by fastenlngs inserted through the upper in said angle and through the insole, laying thewelt on the outturned upper, and permanently securing together the welt, upper, insole-and an outsole.

3. That improvement in the art of making stitch=down shoes which comprises cutting from the grain side of an extension insole a welt strip of such a width and thickness that a supporting shoulder is formed on said insole to fit inside the shoe upper, one end of said welt being'left attached to said insole at approximately the front end of the heel-seat, assembling said insole and an upper upon a last, turning out the lower margin of the upper upon that part of the insole from which the welt has been removed and permanently securing the upper Y to said insole close to said shoulder, laying the welt upon said outturned part of the upper, and securing together said welt, upper, insole and an outsole.

4. That improvement in the art of making stitch-down shoes which comprises cutting from the grain side of an extension insole a welt strip of such width and thickness that a supporting shoulder is formed on said insole to fit inside the shoe upper, one end of said welt strip being left attached to the insole and said welt strip being separated from the insole substantially about the whole periphery thereof, separating from the body of the sole at the heel-seat end that part of the sole which is left above the surface from which the welt has been removed to form a tongue, assembling said insole and an upper upon a last, lasting in the heel end of the upper over said tongue,

turning out the lower margin of the upper through the shank and forepart upon the surface from which the welt has been re moved, securing said upper permanently to said insole close to said shoulder, laying the welt upon the outturned upper, and uniting the welt, upper, insole and an outsole.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ADAM H. PRENZEL. \Vitnesses l a L. W. RYAN,

G. W. SHUL'rz. 

